Professional Safety Standards in Nail Materials: What Every Nail Technician Must Know

Modern trends and the growing popularity of a healthy lifestyle encourage us to pay attention to the composition and manufacturer claims on the packaging of products we use.

With this in mind, let’s clarify what labels such as 3-free, 5-free, 7-free, 12-free mean on gel polishes and builder gels.

First of all, it should be noted that 3-free, 5-free, 7-free, 12-free labels are not regulated by any standards, Ukrainian legislation, or EU directives. Therefore, these labels hold value only from a marketing perspective and do not serve as proof of environmental friendliness, safety, or hypoallergenic properties of nail products.

What Do “Free” Labels Really Mean?

Traditional nail polishes appeared first — the kind that dry in the air and do not require curing in a lamp. These products originally contained ingredients such as dibutyl phthalate, formaldehyde, and toluene. Due to the high toxicity of these components, their use in cosmetics was later banned by the EU. After that, nail polishes free of these substances appeared and were labeled 3-free.

The Three Classic Ingredients

• Dibutyl Phthalate (DBP) — a plasticizer used in nail polishes to increase flexibility. In high concentrations, it can cause allergic reactions.
• Toluene — an organic solvent used in polishes because it is an inexpensive raw material. Long-term exposure may cause allergic reactions; the primary danger is direct contact with mucous membranes.
• Formaldehyde — one of the cheapest preservatives used to prolong shelf life. It negatively affects the respiratory system and may cause skin necrosis.

However, these ingredients are not used in the production of gel polishes or builder gels, so the 3-free label carries no real benefit other than marketing.

How the List Expanded

As the approach attracted attention, manufacturers expanded the list of excluded ingredients in gel polishes — often adding substances that were never used in gel systems:

• 3-free — DBP, Formaldehyde, Toluene
• 4-free — adds Formaldehyde Resin
• 5-free — adds Camphor
• 7-free — adds Xylene, Ethyl Tosylamide
• 12-free — adds Triphenyl Phosphate (TPHP), MEHQ/HQ, Methylisothiazolinone, Parabens, Animal-derived ingredients

You may even come across “eco gel polishes” claiming to exclude sulfates, phosphates, GMOs, or gluten — substances that are not used in nail industry formulations. In theory, the list could be expanded to 24-free and beyond by adding ingredients from wide cosmetic “banned” lists that have no relation to gel polish chemistry.

The Important Truth

Gel polish and builder gel are 100% chemical products, and all their ingredients are allergens and are safe only when used correctly. The product must not come in contact with the skin while uncured.

After polymerization, gel polish becomes a stable polymer and is safe — but the inhibition (dispersion) layer also contains active substances and must be removed correctly. Avoiding contact of the uncured product and the dispersion layer with the skin is essential for safe use.

When fully cured and properly wiped, gel polish can be compared to a typical plastic household object — safe to touch without causing irritation.

HEMA-Free: Another Marketing Claim

You may encounter claims that HEMA is an allergen, and therefore HEMA-free products are safer. However, there is no proof that HEMA-free is safer by default, because formulas usually replace HEMA with other monomers or oligomers (e.g., HPMA or PAA) that are also allergens.

EU expert opinion: the nail plate is an effective barrier, and HEMA/di-HEMA polymerize quickly under UV/LED curing. With correct application limited to the nail plate, they do not pose a sensitization risk even at high concentrations. They are weak to moderate sensitizers, but the main risk arises from misuse — accidental skin contact or incomplete curing.

Products containing HEMA or di-HEMA must be labeled “for professional use only”. The same logic applies to alternative monomers used in HEMA-free products. Therefore, HEMA-free ≠ hypoallergenic; it merely indicates the absence of that specific ingredient.

Contact Dermatitis

Before curing, gel systems remain chemically active. If they contact the skin, components may be absorbed and cause irritation — this is contact dermatitis. It is a common reaction, not a unique “allergy to a brand.”

The notion that “the more free labels, the more hypoallergenic the product” is incorrect.

About “Hypoallergenic” Claims

A hypoallergenic product contains no allergens; in practice, the term means a lowered likelihood of an allergic response — not its absence. Cosmetic products claiming hypoallergenic properties should avoid major allergens (dyes, preservatives, fragrances) and be supported by a safety assessment report.

Marketing and labeling must not imply properties a product does not have. For gel systems, 100% of components can cause allergy, and some may have additional hazard profiles. Therefore, manufacturers cannot truthfully claim that gel polish or builder gels are hypoallergenic.

Safety During Filing and Removal

During filing or removal, dust particles can reach the lungs, eyes, and skin. Personal protective equipment is essential:

• Protective mask/respirator
• Safety glasses
• Local exhaust or good ventilation
• Gloves and clean workstation practices

About “Eco/Green” Terminology

Terms such as “eco-friendly,” “green,” or “environmentally safe” should not be used without proper certification (e.g., ISO 14024). Applying such claims to gel systems without certification is misleading and can be considered unfair competition.

Key Conclusions

• 3-free, 5-free, 7-free, 12-free labels are not evidence of environmental safety or hypoallergenic properties.
• “Hypoallergenic gel polish” claims are misleading and contradict the chemistry of gel systems.
• Gel products contain allergens and are unsafe in uncured form; technique and protocol determine safety.
• Avoid skin contact, ensure complete curing, and correctly remove the dispersion layer.
• Use PPE: masks, gloves, safety glasses, and ensure proper ventilation.